So… WTF is it?

Double-shampooing, hopefully unsurprisingly, is the concept of washing your hair twice in succession - then using your conditioner/hair treatment/whatever as usual.

The typical technique is to concentrate on cleaning the scalp for the first wash, then washing the whole length of your hair with the second wash.

You can use the same shampoo for both washes, or 2 different ones, depending on your hair’s needs.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Few things:

1. The main theory is that your ‘first’ shampoo gets rid of the superficial layer of dirt (oil, sweat, grime, all the good stuff) coating the hair. That means that the ‘second’ wash can give you an intensive clean.

2. You might need different things from your shampoos. If you have a specific hair type (eg curly, frizzy), but it’s also (for example) damaged, you might need 2 shampoos to treat each of those effectively1.

3. You might just hate the smell of the shampoo that your hair responds best to. A second wash will retain the benefits, but replace the smell.

4. The blindingly obvious: your hair usually gets double-shampooed at the hairdresser’s, so it must be ‘better’.

How does it work?

It cleans your hair twice.

Is it the same thing as pre-shampooing?

No. But the fact that that’s known predominantly as pre-poo2 means that I’m not willing to give it any further airtime here. You can Google that one - you’re on your own.

Is it the same thing as double-cleansing?

No, that’s this:

And why would someone want it?

People with thick hair, who only wash it every few days

If this is you3, double shampooing is a good idea. If you’re washing it infrequently, your hair will accumulate a lot of grime between washes. If you use styling products, you also risk product build-up if you’re not getting your hair completely clean each wash.

People managing a scalp condition as well as a hair concern

If this is you4, it’s likely that you use a specialised shampoo to treat your scalp. Those aren’t typically formulated to give you Timotei hair5, so you’ll probably want a second wash with a more cosmetic shampoo that makes you feel like this.

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How much is it?

You will potentially use twice as much shampoo, but:

1. If you’re only washing your hair twice a week, you’re not using a huge amount of shampoo in any case

2. You only need a small amount both times. You’ll likely be surprised at how easily your second wash lathers up.

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Does it hurt?

Only when you get an ouchie if it stings your eyes.

Do I do it?

I now do this most times that I wash my hair. I have SO MUCH HAIR6 and washing it is a giant pain. I started double washing about 6 months ago7 and really found it made a difference:

• My hair looked/felt greasy less quickly

• It reduces the frequency of my psoriasis flare-ups

Shoutout to my delightful Brazilian hairdresser who had to triple wash my hair to get all the glitter out of it post-Carnaval 2024.

Should you do it?

Probably, if one or more of the following apply to you:

1. You have thick hair

2. You wash your hair infrequently

3. You’re managing more than one hair/scalp concern

4. You live in a hard water area

Probably not if you:

1. Wash your hair every day

2. Have thin hair8 - you’re likely to just weigh your hair down. Although it still might be worth considering if you need a scalp or colour-enhancing shampoo as well as a volumising shampoo.

Anything else I think you should know?

Out of the goodness of my heart, this is a grid that suggests the order of shampoos if you do decide to double shampoo9.

Until the next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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7

I use 2 different shampoos each time. More to follow on this next week. OOOOH!

So… WTF are they?

Sebaceous filaments are natural, tube-like structures in your pores made of:

• Sebum

• Dead skin cells

• Bacteria

They are most visible in areas with high sebum production, eg your T-zone (forehead, chin, nose), your scalp, and back.

What’s the point of them? I mean, what do they actually do?

So first, a few words on sebum. It’s usually talked about the context of acne/pimples and is often perceived as The Big Bad Wolf of secretions.

Sebum is actually doing all of the following for your skin:
1. Moisture retention and barrier protection

It forms a film over the skin’s surface to prevent water loss and helps form your acid1 mantle; a thin film that keeps bacteria, fungi, pollution and irritants out.

2. Antimicrobial defence and antioxidant support

Elements of sebum have mild antibacterial and antioxidant properties, eg squalene2.

3. Lubrication

It helps keep hair and skin soft and flexible

Yay sebum!

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Sebaceous filaments are tiny sebum transport systems that help move oil from your sebaceous glands through the follicle/pore to the skin’s surface3.

You can see them in high-oil areas when:

• The pore is large or stretched4

• The density of the oil makes it appear darker

• There’s more keratin in the mix

• Under unforgiving lighting

Teenagers are particularly prone to them as their oil production is often booming.

But wait, what’s the difference between a sebaceous filament and a blackhead then?

I. AM. SO. GLAD. YOU. ASKED.

Sebaceous filaments are supposed to be there. They’re like your sebum arteries.

Blackheads are the visible evidence of a blocked pore.

I made you this to help56:

And here is a handy visual aid:

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So, is treatment pointless?

The bad news: If you have visible sebaceous filaments - and many people do - you’re unlikely to be able to totally eradicate them.

The good news: you can minimise their visibility with the following

• Salicylic acid (BHA): Unclogs pores, dissolves oil and debris.

• Retinoids7: Regulate cell turnover, reduce clogging.

• Niacinamide: Balances oil production

• Clay masks (no more than twice a week)8: Absorb surface oil temporarily.

• Oil cleansing: There is anecdotal evidence9 that massaging an oil cleanser into your pores for 2+ minutes helps to purge sebaceous filaments

• I very rarely write about the efficacy of the sun in skincare, because it’s a can of worms that I’m just not ready to open for now, but my sebaceous filaments become significantly less visible with regular sun exposure10

• Make-up, obvs.

Do not

• Squeeze them as part of your routine - this can damage the pore wall, and they’ll just fill back up within a couple of weeks

• Use pore strips on sebaceous filaments. You might get some fun dots on the strip, but this is just surface sebum and it’s likely to disregulate the filaments11

Anything else I think you should know?

I did you A GRID. What more do you want from me?!

But I would like to reiterate that sebaceous filaments and blackheads are different badgers, and you shouldn’t automatically apply blackhead remedies to sebaceous filaments.

AND you don’t need to ‘treat’ them unless you want to. They’re part of how your skin works, and they’re doing a really good job for you 🥰.

Until the next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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11

This phrase makes me think of this, for some reason

So… WTF is it?

It’s a non-surgical (although still somewhat invasive) way to pull skin taut and can be done pretty much anywhere on the body - most commonly face/neck/stomach.

It was The Next Big Thing, touted as a non-surgical facelift and general solution to any sagging skin you wanted to tackle. Then, about 18 months later, it fell out of favour pretty dramatically as its efficacy and longer-term effects became better understood.

It is still being heavily advertised by some practitioners1, especially on social media, hence this post.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It tightens skin on a temporary basis.

How does it work?

Your skin literally gets pulled by threads.

They’re dissolvable and have little barbs along their length. They get threaded in under the skin, the barbs dig into your skin tissue and they’re tugged/manipulated until the skin sits in the desired position.

The threads are then tied off and subsequently dissolve over the next 6-12 months. Collagen production around the threads will increase as the skin repairs itself.

The number of threads used depends on the size of the area that’s being manipulated and the strength of the intended tightness. Thread lifts are generally priced per thread.

NB - threads can be made of different materials. PDO threads have the shortest efficacy span (3-6 months of optimal results), PLLA threads appear to offer longer-lasting effects (12 months of optimal, with some results persisting for up to 2 years).

And why would someone want it?

These were very well marketed and were more palatable to a lot of people who wanted a cheek/jowl/chin lift rather than a full/half facelift.

They also offered the promise of lift without surgery - the holy grail for some.

How much is it?

Quite a lot, given it doesn’t last that long.

For a thread face lift, depending on the relevant factors (desired outcome, type of thread, skin laxity etc), it would start at around £$1800 and go up to around £$3000.

Given that the lift only lasts 6-12 months (the skin will start to drop after this, although - as above - some effects may last up to 2 years - this is highly dependent on each person’s skin condition and elasticity), this gets pretty expensive to maintain, pretty quickly.

For context, a facelift will last 10 years and you can get a good one from a well-respected surgeon in London starting from around £10k.

I’m not here to advocate for a facelift, but the return on your investment is, objectively, a no-brainer.

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Does it hurt?

The procedure is done under local anaesthetic. There will be ‘discomfort’2 but it’s obviously less invasive or painful than a facelift - which was the main selling point of thread lifts.

There’s swelling and bruising for about a week and then you should be good.

There is the risk of Unintended Side Effects, though. More on those further down…

Have I had one?

No, but I seriously considered one3.

I talked to my botox doctor about it and he was a HARD NO. His clinic used to offer them, although he didn’t personally, but they discontinued the treatment as the results were so variable/short-lived.

He said at cosmetic surgery/medical aesthetics conferences, they’d gone from being a significant talking point to being more or less irrelevant.

Would I get one?

Absolutely not. The cost/results/risk don’t add up for me.

If you get one of these and you like the effects, best case you get the ‘just done’ appearance for a year. Then it’s another £££ for the next one.

I’ll have a facelift instead. Or - you know - just… age.

Should you have it?

I try to stay fairly neutral when it comes to your life decisions about your face, but on this occasion, I would urge you reconsider a thread lift as a viable option.

You can choose to disregard my opinion, of course.

Anything else I think you should know?

Other risks to consider:

• Same as filler, the threads can dissolve asymmetrically and/or unpredictably, giving you a lopsided effect

• The threads can pucker and/or become visible under the skin

As above, this is often marketed as fast, cheap, simple non-invasive and effective, but it’s really only ‘fast’.

If you were desperate for a quick fix (eg the ex you’re still in love with is marrying your sister and you’re bridesmaid4) this might fit the bill, but no-one is worth the risk of disfiguring yourself for5.

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

Technically, ‘retinoids’ describes the entire Vitamin A skincare family (retinol, retinal and retinoic acid).

However, when people talk about retinoids, they’re generally referring to retinoic acid, AKA prescription-strength retinoids, AKA (most commonly) tretinoin/tret.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Retinoic acid was originally used in the treatment of acne, but it’s increasing in popularity as anti-ageing skincare.

How does it work?

All topical1 Vitamin A skincare products work the same way:

• Promote skin cell turnover - i.e. encourage dead skin layers to shed and new cells to grow, meaning your skin is ‘newer’ on the surface

• Stimulate Collagen Production -
  

• Reduce inflammation - can improve redness, swelling, and irritation

• Fades hyperpigmentation — including melasma, age spots, and acne scars

Retinoic acid is the highest concentration Vitamin A skincare ingredient and is only available by prescription.

In addition to the above, it can unclog pores and regulate oil production2

And why would someone want it?

It’s very effective at rejuvenating skin and is one of the only topically applied ingredients that is clinically proven to stimulate collagen production.

Results are also quick, although some may experience The Purge (more on which below).

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How much is it?

Incredibly cheap when compared to most skincare products that don’t deliver anything near the anti-ageing benefits of this mutha.

It’s only available by prescription.

In the UK, a private prescription will cost you around £203.

US drug prices are highly variable depending on whether you’re prescribed generic or branded and what your insurance will cover. Welcome to the dystopian nightmare that is your healthcare system!

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Does it hurt?

No. But approach with caution. Retinoic acid is extremely powerful and you may experience one or more of the below:

• Skin peeling

• Increased sensitivity to the sun (which will also result in skin peeling)

• The Purge - some prescription retinoid users experience severe disruption to the skin for the first 2-3 months of use. This can result in acne/pimple breakouts, peeling, dryness and redness/irritation

• If you get facial hair waxed whilst on retinoids, it’s likely to take off the top layer of your skin. Sooooo, maybe don’t?

Have I used it?

Yes, I used to use it daily (at night, azelaic acid in the morning) and was astonished at the speed and efficacy of results. The tretinoin glow IS REAL.

Would I use it?

I had to stop after a few months. I spend too much time in the sun and I was noticeably peeling.

I now use azelaic acid (20% concentration) twice a day instead and am really happy with it.

Azelaic acid does not boost collagen production4 however; bear this in mind if this is important to you.

I would absolutely start using a prescription retinoid again if I had less sun exposure.

Should you have it?

Unless you spend a lot of time in the sun, there’s unlikely to be a more effective topical anti-ageing product out there for you.

Anything else I think you should know?

I wrote all about prescription skincare (where to buy, characteristic Stern Words Of Advice etc) here:

This resource5 is absolutely incredible if you’re embarking on a prescription retinoid journey.

There are 4 methods to apply prescription retinoids. They are all detailed here, along with PAGES of helpful advice. Honestly, read it.

In case you don’t read it6 start with the lowest concentration and move up only once your skin tolerates the lowest concentration effortlessly. You also don’t have to move up if you’ve already achieved the outcome you wanted.

Reminder: you don’t have to use it, just because it’s there.

More skincare is not better. LESS skincare is better.

But if you’re spending a lot on skincare in the pursuit of smoother skin, a prescription retinoid7 is likely cheaper and more effective than anything else you’re using.

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

Retinol is a skin care ingredient. It’s a low concentration form of Vitamin A that’s available without a prescription.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It’s used in the treatment of fine lines and skin tone/texture improvement.

How does it work?

All topical1 Vitamin A skincare products work the same way:

• Promote skin cell turnover - i.e. encourage dead skin layers to shed and new cells to grow, meaning your skin is ‘newer’ on the surface

• Stimulate Collagen Production -
  

• Reduce inflammation - can improve redness, swelling, and irritation

• Fades hyperpigmentation — including melasma, age spots, and acne scars

Retinol is a lower concentration than prescription-strength retinoids, but its properties are the same.

And why would someone want it?

Because they… don’t want fine lines and wrinkles?

Retinol also gets marketed pretty hard by skincare brands as an effective anti-ageing product.

(This is because they’re not allowed to sell you prescription-strength Vitamin A)

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How much is it?

Retinol is relatively cheap as an ingredient - The Ordinary have a variety of concentrations starting at around £$8.

As ever with skincare, some companies will charge you a lot more if you let them get away with it. Here’s a retinol for £325 if you’re feeling sprauncy.2

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Does it hurt?

No. As with much skincare, if you use too high a concentration then you may experience skin irritation (probably redness and flakiness), but retinol definitely shouldn’t hurt

Have I used it?

Yes, but not in any meaningful/sustained way. I dabbled in The Ordinary and that Vichy eye cream that everyone stanned in the 90s.

Would I use it?

My scorching hot take here is that it’s too late for retinol if you already have visible lines and wrinkles.

I don’t think it’s harmful and I don’t avoid it, but I think most of 35 have already aged out and should be using either prescription-strength vitamin A, Botox or mechanical means (lasers, microneedling etc) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

It’s not bad. But it’s probably a waste of money for the over-35s if the outcome you’re looking for is a reduction in lines.

Should you have it?

This is between you and your wallet. IMO you’ll get better bang for your buck from other ingredients/methods.

Also, Vitamin A products increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so this may not be the ingredient for you if you get a lot of sun exposure.

You should always use SPF if you’re using retinol products3.

Anything else I think you should know?

Retinol is available over the counter in concentrations of 0.01-1%. The percentage denotes the concentration by weight of pure retinol in the formulation

The temptation with skincare is always to start with the highest concentration, with the distorted logic that this will be the highest efficacy.

If you’re new to retinol, start with the lowest concentration and work your way up. Don’t shock your skin. No higher than 0.1% for your first try and definitely lower if you have sensitive skin.

It will likely take 2-3 months of consistent use to see a visible improvement. Do not increase the concentration until you’re past the 3-month mark.

Some people absolutely love A313 cream, which is at the lower concentration end (0.12%).

It’s cheapest in France, but is easily available all over the world for around £$25. I actively loathe this stuff - it makes my skin feel claustrophobic - but it has thousands of adoring fans, so it would be remiss of me not to mention it.

Final reminder: You shouldn’t combine vitamin A and vitamin C products in the same routine. You can do Vit C in the morning and retinol at night.

I write about it here:

And I tell you why Vitamin C products probably aren’t worth your time here:

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s the fancy name for that rough, bumpy ‘chicken skin’, you’re annoyed with on your (usually) upper arms and legs.

At this time of year, most of us throw on long sleeves, whack on the heating and forget the diligent moisturisation regimens of the heady days of summer. And voila, nature’s gift: sad-looking skin texture.

Frustratingly, the cause is still largely unknown, but keratosis pilaris (KP) is the result of excess keratin, a protein found in the skin, hair, and nails. When keratin builds up, it blocks hair follicles, and those incredibly attractive rough bumps appear. If you’re really lucky, they’ll also be a different colour to the rest of your skin, drawing attention to themselves, like the showy little bastards that they are.

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Is it fatal?

Not so far, but it’s not optimally aesthetically pleasing.

Are there any specific triggers?

1. Your gene pool: KP tends to run in families, meaning that if your parents or siblings have it, there’s a decent chance that you’ll share in this treat and potentially hand it down to your unwitting children. The circle of life, ladies and gentlemen!

2. Dry Skin: People with naturally dry skin are more likely to experience KP, especially during colder months1 when the skin is more prone to dehydration. Cold weather and low humidity can exacerbate the condition, leading to more pronounced bumps.

3. Skin Conditions: If, like me, you are blessed with the gift of eczema you’re more prone to KP. Eczema weakens your skin barrier, which can make keratin blockages more likely.

4. Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations during pregnancy, puberty and menopause can influence the severity of any KP breakouts. KP is more prevalent in women than men.

   ---

What can you do about it?

There’s no cure for keratosis pilaris, but the condition can be managed into invisibility with the appropriate love and attention.

Exfoliation

1. Physical: You can use physical exfoliant (eg a body scrub or a shower mitt2) whilst washing to remove the dead skin cells that contribute to the buildup of keratin.

   As ever with physical exfoliation, avoid harsh scrubbing, which can irritate the skin and make the condition worse.

   ---

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2. Chemical: Cleansers and moisturisers that contain AHAs or BHAs can be really effective in combating KP

• These ingredients help dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting renewal and preventing keratin buildup.

• You can get a stronger body peel treatment in-salon. As ever, make sure you’re aware of your sensitivity to whichever active(s) the treatment contains

Moisturise

Hydration is your BBF in the banishment of KP. As above, anything with an AHA/BHA as an ingredient will help. Moisturizers that contain ingredients like urea, lactic acid, or glycerin can help soften the skin and reduce the appearance of bumps. Urea and lactic acid are particularly effective because they not only hydrate but also exfoliate the skin.

You don’t need to go mad and spend masses on a miracle product3, as with most skincare, the solution is consistency rather than sporadic panic-application of something expensive.

• Moisturise the affected areas every day, preferably after showering (traps moisture).

• Avoid anything heavily scented if you’re sensitive to fragranced products

  ---

Topical Retinoids (vitamin A)

A dermatologist can prescribe topical retinoids to help treat severe keratosis pilaris. Retinoids also promote cell turnover and prevent hair follicles from becoming clogged with keratin. However, they can irritate sensitive skin and should not be combined with sun exposure, so only use under instruction from a derm.

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Laser Therapy

For more severe cases of KP that don’t respond to topical treatments, laser therapy may be an option. Laser treatments can help reduce redness and improve the texture of the skin by targeting the hair follicles and the buildup of keratin. While laser therapy isn’t a permanent solution, it can provide significant improvement in the appearance of keratosis pilaris.

Diet

Vitamin A and Omega-3 Fatty Acids both promote skin health and the latter reduces inflammation. So pile on the salmon and sweet potato fishcakes.

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Have I had it?

Since I was a kid. Along with any other skin condition you care to name 🤦🏼‍♀️

Anything else I think you should know?

What works for me

• I use these very expensive, but IMO not overpriced, shower mitts every time I shower. Knockoffs are available, but the reviews are poor. They should last you 8-10 years effortlessly, so the price per use is minuscule.

• My search for The Perfect Body Scrub In A Tube continues. For now, I’m using up a bottle of Soap and Glory Smoothie Star, which is doing me proud

  

• I double-moisturise. First with this, which I let absorb (lightning fast)

  

  and then a layer of whatever else I fancy.

• I also usually moisturise my body at night

• Any excess skincare on my hands from my skincare routine goes on my arms, day or night

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

Well… Remember Olaplex?

One of its inventors was a guy called Dr Eric Pressly1. He ended up successfully suing the shit out of L’Oreal2 for violating Olaplex patents and then rode off into the sunset, leaving Olaplex in 2019 with some L’Oreal $$$ in his pocket.

Then, bored during the pandemic3 he “bought chemicals to play around with” in his garage and created Epres, a new challenger in the hair-repairing arena. It launched in 2022.

As of this week, there’s also a shampoo and conditioner.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Similar to Olaplex, it rebuilds broken disulfide bonds to improve hair’s overall strength, elasticity and health

How does it work?

It only has 4 ingredients 🤯: diethylhexyl maleate, oleyl alcohol, alcohol denat, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Epres’s innovation is liquid molecule Biodiffusion technology, which (per the brand’s claims) enables it to continue to repair bonds long after application. K18 and Olaplex are made up of solid molecules that stop working when they dry.

And why would someone want it?

People like options, right? But there are some obvious potential benefits:

This performs the same function as Olaplex, but is a leave-in treatment, so is less fiddly.

It’s acid-free (unlike Olaplex), so is theoretically gentler to hair.

It’s also biodegradable and you dilute it with water when you’re ready to use it. The lack of water gives it a longer shelf life - once you add water, you’re advised to use it within 2 months.

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How much is it?

The treatment is £46/$50. Shampoo and conditioner are £31/$34 each.

They claim the treatment gets you 6-8 applications from the 2 bottles provided. More on this below…

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Does it hurt?

No.

Have I had it?

Yes.

So I was a long-time (now lapsed) user of Olaplex, then a recent K18 evangelist and I decided to throw this into the mix for comparison.

Would I have it?

It’s not a repurchase for me. I used what I had up, but we have now parted ways.

The good:

• It’s very easy to use, you spray it onto dry hair whenever you like and then - as long as it’s been on for 10 minutes - rinse out when you feel like it. Even days later, if that’s your preference.

  • They recommend that you wash out before using heated styling tools, so bear that in mind.

I didn’t love these elements:

• The smell is even worse than Olaplex. Weird, earthy and chemical-y.

• You have to completely saturate hair with the product. I have TONS of hair. Kilos of it. I had to use over half the bottle for one treatment. So this did not last me long.

• I tried leaving it in for 24 hours - some ladies of the internet swore by this, with some leaving it on for 48 hours - and it just weighed my hair down. And did I mention the smell?

I remain a K18 superfan until further notice.

Should you have it?

I’m not going to try to talk you out of it, but I didn’t love it.

Anything else I think you should know?

Just that I’m very much still in my Cher era.

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s a haircare range, established in 2020, that’s the main challenger to Olaplex’s supremacy in the hair repairing stakes.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It’s a hair treatment that strengthens hair by repairing keratin bonds.

Keratin is the main structural protein in hair, providing the physical structure and strength of the hair strands. K18 targets and repairs the keratin chains1.

How does it work?

After studying the molecular makeup of hair, scientists identified the specific peptide that could mimic natural keratin proteins, leading to the creation and trademarking of the K18 Peptide.

K18 rebuilds the hair's cortex at a molecular level, providing deep structural repair2.

And why would someone want it?

Because it Really Fucking Works.

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How much is it?

It is Really Fucking Expensive.

You only need a tiny amount per application, but the RRP for the regular-sized (50ml, 1.7floz) bottle is around £70/$75).

You can buy it for much cheaper than this - only buy from reputable sellers - especially if you can find the 150ml/5floz ‘professional’ size3.

I’ve been able to get the regular size for around £45 and the professional size for around £70 in the UK. Per the footnotes, Spain is much cheaper.

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Does it hurt?

Only your wallet.

Have I had it?

Yes. My hairdresser suggested it in 2022 after I’d had it over-bleached by another hairdresser during the pandemic4. She had started recommending it to her clients instead of Olaplex as an at-home treatment.

Would I have it?

Hell to the yeah.

So, full disclosure5, I initially used this completely incorrectly (more on this below) and was relatively underwhelmed by the results vs cost.

Then, when I decided to get serious about treating the ruination of my hair, after nearly 3 years of sun, sea and profound mistreatment, I kept coming back to glowing K18 reviews, decided to give it another go and - having finally used it correctly - was dumbfounded by the results.

I didn’t realise I was going to end up writing this, so I don’t have a handy ‘bad hair day’ before photo6, BUT I honestly cannot stop looking at my hair post-treatment.

It leaves my hair frizz-free and devoid of annoying kinks for several days without any heat styling7 or any product other than some argan oil in the ends.

Genuinely mind-blowing. And it is incredibly easy to use AND smells great.

Should you have it?

If you can comfortably afford it, I think it is phenomenal.

Anything else I think you should know?

How I used it incorrectly

So I initially only half-read the instructions, because obviously I am The Queen Of Everything And Know Best8.

The instruction is to comb this through washed, but not conditioned hair. YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO APPLY THE K18, THEN WAIT FOUR MINUTES BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO COMB IT THROUGH.

I ignored/didn’t read the four-minute rule, tried to comb this through immediately after applying (didn’t end well), applied WAY MORE than the recommended maximum of 3 pumps, still couldn’t comb through and from then on, applied it to washed and conditioned hair.

DO NOT DO THIS.

How to use it correctly, so you’re not wasting product

1. Comb your hair before washing9

2. Wash your hair with your shampoo of choice

3. Do whatever else you need to do in the shower and get out.

4. Towel dry hair gently but thoroughly. Your life will be easier if you don’t attack your scalp, creating knots.

5. Start with 2 pumps into your palms, then rub your palms together for about 15 seconds to emulsify the product

6. Starting from the mid-length (ignore the roots), distribute the product through your hair

7. LEAVE FOR FOUR MINUTES. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.

8. Your hair will detangle through the miracle of science during those 4 minutes.

9. After four minutes have passed (and not before), comb your hair out

10. As long as four minutes have passed, you can now apply conditioner and rinse out. I don’t bother.

    ---

NB

When K18 first came out, they didn’t give very clear instructions on conditioner and it was widely believed that you couldn’t use conditioner after application.

K18 have now clarified on their website that as long as the four minutes have passed, you can condition and rinse the hair without consequences, or layer whatever products you want on top of K18.

I used it every wash for the first 6 washes and now use it every third wash. This is because I do want to use conditioner for some washes and don’t want the faff of wash/towel dry/apply/wait/get back in shower/condition/rinse. Your mileage may vary.

I also use 3 pumps and I have a stupid amount of hair (about 2 inches below bra strap and thick, even in its current depleted state).

Disclaimer:

I don’t write NBWI to try to flog product and I’m aware that this post is a bit of a rave, but I have been genuinely shocked at how well it works AND I wanted to prevent you from repeating my errors if you gave it a go.

And here we are 😊.

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s a haircare range, established in 2014, that originally offered just 3 products - 2 to be used in salons, then the take-home bottle - that swiftly became a haircare juggernaut.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

The original 3-step process was designed to be used by hairdressers when colouring hair to reduce damage.

There are now over a dozen different haircare products - all designed to improve hair health - and they’ve recently diversified into lash and brow products.

How does it work?

SCIENCE: Disulfide bonds are responsible for the strength and elasticity of hair, and when these bonds are broken, hair becomes weak, frizzy, and prone to breakage. (We’ve all been there…)

Olaplex’s main innovation is the ingredient bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (yep, catchy), that can reconnect broken disulfide bonds in the hair, improving its strength, structure and texture.

The first two products (steps 1 and 2) were designed to be used by hairdressers to mitigate damage during chemical processes - most commonly, dying hair. Step 3 (what most people think of when they think of Olaplex) was designed to be taken home to maintain the salon results.

The range has mushroomed over time1, adding shampoos, conditioners, styling products etc, but they are all designed to strengthen hair.

And why would someone want it?

Because we all, ultimately, want to be Becky With The Good Hair.

The science of the product is sound2, although there is some debate as to the efficacy of any of the take-home products (i.e. anything that isn’t steps 1 and 2)3.

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Why have I heard of it?

Well…

Kim Kardashian

Initially made it famous, crediting it with preventing her hair from ruin when she bleached it. It later went viral on TikTok.

Domination

And everything went pretty well for several years, with Olaplex becoming ubiquitous, going public with a valuation of $14bn and growing revenue 100% YoY for a couple of years.

Lilial

Then lilial happened. It was a minor fragrancing agent in Olaplex that was banned by the EU in 2020 due to studies indicating it could cause infertility in rodents if eaten in large quantities.

TikTok turned on its former darling and a decent amount of panic-mongering ensued4. Olaplex removed the ingredient worldwide within months, but the rumours that Olaplex causes infertility have proven sticky5.

Class action

A class action lawsuit has been initiated by 100 women claiming their hair was damaged by Olaplex. 100 women after millions of bottles sold is a vanishingly small percentage and the suit was thrown out by the judge, but Olaplex has been in the press for all the wrong reasons since 2021.

How much is it?

Steps 1 and 2 in-salon are anything from £$25+.

The rest of the range is product/quantity dependent, but it’s from around £$15-50.

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Does it hurt?

Not unless you were one of the 100 women in that lawsuit 👀

Have I had it?

Yes. My hairdresser introduced steps 1 and 2 to my fried hair in 2016 when she started dying it. I then used 3 at home realtively regularly at home for about 5 years and dabbled in some of the shampoos and conditioners.

Would I have it?

I still get steps 1 and 2 when I get my hair coloured, but I no longer use any of the at-home products.

3 reasons:

1. I really dislike the smell. I tolerated the smell of ‘3’ on the basis that it was a unique product, but there are thousands of shampoos and other styling prodcuts out there, so it made no sense to keep buying.

2. I never saw a significant difference. Ultimately, I moved on to other products.

3. I found the process faffy - you apply it to wet hair, comb through (sets my teeth on edge) then wait, then shampoo out and use conditioner.

   
   I have too much to do to indulge this shit.

Should you have it?

If you like it and it’s working for you, I’m not here to talk you out of it.

If you’re intrigued by it and you haven’t bought it because of the bad press around fertility and scalp damage, you can ignore the bad press IMO.

Also bear in mind when reading reviews that there’s a massive fakes market for Olaplex. Many of the bad product reviews are likely written buy people who inadvertently bought a knock-off. (Amazon marketplace is rife with these.)

Anything else I think you should know?

1. The debate about how long to leave it on for rages online.

   
   Olaplex say 10 minutes as a minimum, up to 90 minutes.

   
   Kim swears by overnight

   
   You do you6

2. Similarly, there’s a school of thought that it’s more effective on dry hair. I tried this and all it seemed to do was require 3 times as much product for no improvement in outcome.

3. Olaplex was an innovator in the space when it appeared, but the technology has kept moving apace around it. If you’ve been a long-term user of the at-home products, there might be a better, shinier alternative for you.

   ---

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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1

At time of writing, from the Olaplex website

So… WTF is it?

Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure during which you or your dermatologist/facialist use a razor to scrape off dead skin cells and facial hair (often ‘peach fuzz’, but expect all facial hair to be removed if you have dermaplaning done professionally).

It is also, essentially, a marketing tool to destigmatise1 the practice of women shaving off their facial hair.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

As we know:

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the body after they’ve loosened from the top layer of skin.

How does it work?

A dermaplaning tool looks like a small scalpel that is used in a controlled, precise way.

It’s scraped gently over the skin, removing hair and a top layer of skin, the latter being a form of mechanical exfoliation.

It can also be used to shape eyebrows without plucking.

And why would someone want it?

• Smoother Skin: Exfoliation typically results in smoother, softer skin

• Better Absorption: Your skincare products can penetrate better and work more effectively without the barrier of dead skin cells and hair.

• Makeup Application: Foundation and other makeup products go on more smoothly

The results are also instant, with no downtime - although, as always with anything that’s impacting your skin barrier, you should still be kind to your skin for 24-72 hours, depending on your skin’s sensitivity.

Also, if you’re self-conscious about your facial hair, this process will remove it

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How much is it?

To DIY at home, you can buy a dermaplaning tool for as little as £$1 and up to around £$20 for something fancy.

If you go to a salon to get it done, it varies wildly. Most salons/clinics make it a multi-stage process with hot towels and serums thrown in.

So anything from around £$20 (if you can find a salon that does just the dry removal) to £$150 for a fancier experience.

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Does it hurt?

Only if your skin gets nicked - same as any other type of shaving. Because again, to stress this, dermaplaning is another name for shaving.

As with shaving, you also have to take care of your skin barrier afterwards, to prevent rashes or bumps. Gentle, unscented products are best.

Absolutely do not dermaplane if you’re using a retinoid on your face2.

Have I had it?

Yes.

Would I have it?

I have had peach fuzz on my face for as long as I can remember. It’s tolerable, but when I trained in make-up3 I quickly realised how much better foundation looked on completely smooth faces.

I also used to get fabric balls on my face if I used cheap towels4 and had to pick them off.

So, this summer I finally decided to bite the bullet and give dermaplaning a go.

I used the Tweezerman razor as I have High Trust in their tools.

I LOVED the effect - skincare and make-up application was instantly smoother and easier5, but I found the process fiddly and quite stressful. Working out the ‘right’ amount of pressure took some time and even under bright lighting, I felt I was missing bits.

2 weeks later, I noticed regrowth and decided to try waxing instead - I’ve been an enthusiastic home waxer since my teens6.

Now THIS felt life-changing.

Took under 20 seconds total, got everything and should last longer.

So, for now, I’m converted. It also had the unexpected side effect of enhancing my cheekbones - that peach fuzz was denser than I’d realised 😂.

Should you have it?

If you have concerns that it would address, it’s largely risk and pain-free if you have a steady hand. And if you don’t, it’s easy to find a pro to do it for you.

I will reiterate: do not dermaplane or wax your face if you’re using a retinoid.

Anything else I think you should know?

1. If you’re worried that there’s a risk that your hair will grow back thicker/darker if you remove it, this has been debunked many times over.

IT IS A MYTH.

2. You can dermaplane on a dry face or with a layer of oil. I tried both and found the oil easier for ‘glide’, but it was harder to tell where the hairs were.

3. If your primary goal is hair removal, you can just use a regular razor if you’d prefer. The benefit of the dermaplaning tool is that it allows the skin to be removed more effectively.

4. A lot of the salons offering dermaplaning use an enzyme mask as part of the process. That feels a bit harsh to me. Approach with caution

5. Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should feel you have to. There’s nothing wrong with peach fuzz. It’s literally this year’s hottest colour.

   ---

You do you, baby.

Until next time! x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s commonly thought of as eyebrow-tattooing, although that doesn’t necessarily reflect Real Events.

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What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It fills your eyebrows with pigment, reducing or removing the need to wear make-up to define them. It can be done whether you have thick, sparse or no eyebrows of your own.

How does it work?

Your microblader uses a handheld tool (called a microblade, HENCE THE NAME). This tool has a row of fine needles that looks like a tiny rake.

The needles are dipped into pigment to create precise, hair-like incisions in the skin, much finer than a regular tattoo needle.

Tattoos typically deposit ink 1.5-2mm into the dermis. Microblading only goes to a depth of 0.08-0.15mm, so it’s far less permanent.

The pigment used for microblading is specifically formulated for facial use and is designed to fade over time.

And why would someone want it?

Usually:

• Those who’ve lost their eyebrows due to over-plucking, chemo or alopecia

• Those who want increased eyebrow definition and don’t want to use make-up every day

How much is it?

This can vary wildly from £$200 upwards.

It is more expensive in the US than the UK, with the top end in the US around $3000. The latter is taking the wicked piss, in my opinion.

As always, you’re paying for your practitioner’s skills and experience, but anything over about £800 in the UK is questionable.

You’ll probably pay $1500 (and be expected to tip in addition) in the US for someone good.

Does it hurt?

Yes.

Have I had it?

Yes.

The first time was in 2017 and I’ve had an annual touch-up with different practitioners ever since.

Would I have it?

Yes. This is on my Permanent Maintenance list for the foreseeable.

I have quite thick brows, despite chronic over-plucking in the 90s, but my natural arch is a couple of millimetres below the most flattering point on my face. Microblading is a no-brainer as a result.

Our eyebrows thin as we age, so I’ll review this over time, but - for now - I am all in.

Should you have it?

Subject to caution, it can be face-changing, in the best way.

As ever, do a lot of research into your practitioner. If you get bad work done, it can linger for years longer than advertised.

Anything else I think you should know?

Two things:

1. Do not listen to or get your brows done by practitioners who say that they deliberately don’t use numbing cream, to improve the integrity of the pigment1.

2. The amount of time that microblading lasts is tricky to predict. As with many procedures:

   1. It is likely to fade inconsistently over time - expect some patchiness to occur within a year

   2. Bad work will stubbornly refuse to disappear and good work will vanish without trace much faster than you’d hoped

   This is the curse of cosmetic work 🤦🏼‍♀️

   ---

The full Everything You Ever Wanted To Know is on the way soon.

Big love until then x

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

Ok, so almost all readers of this will know that exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the face or body. But methods of exfoliation have come a long way, baby and you may be causing harm to the skin if you haven’t moved with the times.

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How do you pronounce it?

Ex-fo-lee-ay-shun

but also

“PUT THAT FUCKING TUBE OF ST IVES DOWN”

Either one.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the body after they’ve loosened from the top layer of skin1

How does it work?

OK, soooo… The body is in a constant state of decay and repair, skin is no exception. As old skin cells die, new ones are being made to replace them. The cycle time of skin rejuvenation alters as we age2, but there is always turnover.

Exfoliation is the process of getting rid of dead skin cells through physical, chemical or mechanical means.

When I was younger, the virtues of gritty, physical cleansers were extolled and I’d bet you grew up with a bottle of this knocking around the place.

20th-century physical exfoliation was all about abrasive skin removal, i.e. exfoliating products that had 'bits’ in them, e.g. sugar, nutshells, microbeads, rice bran powder and crushed seeds, or the use of mitts/cloths that were rough to the touch.

Nowadays, the advice is to use one of the following methods instead:

Physical: Hot cloth cleansing. You don’t use a specific exfoliating physical product and instead use fabric to slough the skin off.

Do not rub the material aggressively over your skin, sweeping motions are as effective and won’t leave your face raw.

You can still buy ‘abrasives’, but those are safer to use on the body, with care.

Chemical: What most 21st century skincare experts/advice refer to as exfoliants.

These are products with properties that remove skin cells, e.g. AHAs (glycolic or lactic acid)/BHAs (salicylic acid)/PHAs (all unpronounceable), azelaic acid, lactic acid. Enzyme peels also fall into this category.

Depending on your skin type, the above are safe for regular - and sometimes daily - use.

Mechanical: this includes things like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning. The Clarisonic (I loved mine dearly) was also an example of this.

Unfortunately, exfoliation is very easy to overdo at home, so it’s generally recommended that you only receive mechanical exfoliation from a trained aesthetic practitioner

And why would someone want it?

Removing dead skin cells has the following benefits:

• Your skin looks brighter

  • Age spots and superficial scars can fade

  • ‘New’ skin glows more than old skin

• Your skin care products can be absorbed more effectively

• It can help to prevent clogged pores, resulting in clearer skin and improved skin texture

• Long-term exfoliating can increase collagen production both by stimulating the skin and promoting cell renewal

How much is it?

Physical scrubs are generally cheap (easily found for under £10/$10, anywhere) and some can be made at home for pennies. BE REALLY CAREFUL.

Chemical exfoliants start at around £53/$8 and go into £300-£500 range for the luxe brands that will take you for every penny that you have, given half a chance.

Mechanical methods will depend on the procedure, location and expertise of your practitioner, but will vary between around £50-£300 as a very rough guide4.

Does it hurt?

It will if you go too far. A common error in skincare is to do too much, too soon. You risk destroying your skin barrier if you’re over-zealous.

Please don’t.

Have I had it?

I have tried it ALL. ALL.

Would I have it?

I find that regular exfoliation is the best thing to keep my eczema and psoriasis at bay. Not everyone has this experience, but it definitely works for me.

I hot-cloth cleanse with a flannel at night and use glycolic acid (2-3 times a week) and azelaic acid (daily).

I also use a salicylic shampoo or pre-cleanser at least once a month. But I shed more skin than the average human.

Should you have it?

Subject to caution, there are myriad benefits to exfoliation.

It may increase your sensitivity to sunlight, especially when you first introduce into your routine. You should be using a 15-50 SPF5 daily in any case, but IF NOT then please do so on the days that you exfoliate.

Anything else I think you should know?

If you haven’t watched AND read The Princess Bride, please do so as soon as you can. Then message me about it.

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s an injectable, commonly used to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and scarring; to promote a ‘fuller’ look or to increase volume of specific areas - especially in the face

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It fills your epidermis from the inside, giving a smoother appearance and/or adding volume.

How does it work?

There are four main types of filler, sold under different brand names. All work to ‘fill’ the area they’re injected into.

• Hyaluronic Acid (HA) : HA fillers are hydrophilic, attracting and binding water molecules. This results in immediate volume augmentation, skin hydration and stimulates collagen production.

  HA fillers are the most commonly used

  • Brand names: Juvederm, Restylane, Belotero

  • Commonly used for: fine lines, lips, nasolabial folds, cheeks, and under-eye areas.

  • Longevity: 6-18 months (longevity depends on the injection areas and HA is the most versatile filler)

  • Results: Immediate (although final outcome will take a couple of weeks to settle in)

  • Reversible with hyaluronidase. Only HA fillers are dissolvable.

• Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA): These fillers provide immediate volume through the gel carrier and stimulate collagen production through fibroblast activation over time, leading to a gradual and sustained volumizing effect.

  • Brand name: Radiesse

  • Commonly Used For: Nasolabial folds, marionette lines, cheek augmentation, midface volumization, jawline contouring, hand rejuvenation

  • Longevity: 12-24 months

  • Results: Immediate, with collagen stimulation further enhancing the outcome over several months

  • Reversibility: Non-reversible

• Poly-L-lactic Acid (PLLA): PLLA stimulates neocollagenesis, which boosts the body’s own collagen production

  • Brand Name: Sculptra

  • Commonly Used For: Full facial volumization, deep wrinkles and folds, cheek and temple augmentation

  • Longevity: Up to 2 years

  • Results: Gradual, with full results developing over several months

  • Reversibility: Non-reversible

• Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA): PMMA microspheres provide a scaffold for collagen deposition, resulting in long-lasting (possibly permanent) structural support.

  • Brand Name: Bellafill

  • Commonly Used For: Deep nasolabial folds, acne scars

  • Longevity: several years/indefinitely

  • Results: Immediate improvement (collagen). Long-term support from PMMA microspheres.

  • Reversibility: Non-reversible.

How much is it?

This will vary substantially depending on how much you get. A syringe is typically 1ml.

A rough guide1 for a single 1ml vial is provided below (ordered by most to least expensive.)

• Bellafill (PMMA)

  • UK: £600-£800

  • US: $1,000-$1,500

• Sculptra (PLLA)

  • UK: £400-£600

  • US: $800-$1,000

• Radiesse (CaHA)

  • UK: £350-£500

  • US: $650-$800

• Juvederm (HA)

  • UK: £300-£450

  • US: $600-$800

• Restylane (HA)

  • UK: £250-£400

  • US: $550-$750

• Belotero (HA)

  • UK: £250-£400

  • US: $500-$700

This is the cost of the filler to you and does not include the cost of your practitioner’s time/expertise.

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Does it hurt?

In my experience, it hurts surprisingly more than Botox.

Have I had it?

Yes: nose, lip and marionette

Nose - once in 2021

Lip - annually since 2021

Marionette lines - once in 2023

Would I have it again?

Marionette - probably not. My doctor injected me there to use up the final remnants of a syringe he’d done my lips with. It was fine, but I’m not mad keen on the idea of ‘filling’ a lot of my face.

Nose - 50/50. It hurt a lot and didn’t last very long. Watch this space.

Lips - Yes. I really love the result. I plan to only stop if they fall off2.

Should you have it?

Exercise caution. Resist the temptation to get a lot done or to get it re-done too soon (more on this below).

Ensure you do the proper research. Filler is much easier for a practitioner to fuck up than Botox.

If you’re in the UK, I will implore you once again to only get it administered by a doctor and not your dentist/your mate’s mate who did a 1-day course3.

Anything else I think you should know?

1. Filler breaks down in the body over time and it can happen unevenly/unpredictably. Follow your practitioner’s advice and never get a top-up until they tell you it’s necessary. Filler build-up is a real thing and is one of the leading reasons why people can look as though they’ve had too much done.

2. Don’t be misled into thinking that filler is trivial just because you’ve read about a dozen Love Island contestants talking about getting it dissolved. Not all filler is dissolvable, dissolution hurts like a bastard4 (I don’t have first hand experience of this, but secondary accounts are eye-watering) and there is still a risk that it dissolves unevenly.

3. Filler to reduce fine lines and wrinkles (rather than to increase volume) is falling out of favour, with many practitioners steering towards laser or microneedling instead. Have informed conversations with your practitioner to ensure that filler is definitely right for you and the outcome you’re looking for.

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Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

So… WTF is it?

It’s an active used in skincare.

How do you pronounce it?

az-uh-lay-ick acid

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It’s a gentle skin exfoliant with anti-inflammatory properties.

A concentration of up to 10% is available to buy over the counter for cosmetic use.

Over 10% requires a prescription.

How does it work?

It can be used topically once or twice daily, depending on the rest of your routine.

At a 15-20% concentration, it kills acne-causing bacteria on the skin.

At lower concentrations (typically 10%) it's still an antioxidant that neutralises free radicals, lowering inflammation, which can also help in the treatment of rosacea.

AND it inhibits tyrosinase, making it an effective treatment for the prevention and treatment of hyperpigmentation.

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And why would someone want it?

It can do a bunch of stuff, as above, but it’s also much gentler than many other actives so:

1. It can be combined easily and successfully with other actives

2. It can be used by pregnant women. Many other actives (especially retinoids) are contraindicated during pregnancy.

3. It’s less likely to trigger a reaction when used (redness, irritation, peeling).

4. Unlike retinoids, it does not increase skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so you can use it even if sunbathing or in bright sunlight.

How much is it?

It’s usually1 bought as a stand-alone ingredient rather than being part of a cocktail of ingredients, although it’s often also sold as an azelaic acid/niacinamide solution.

Concentrations of up to 10% azelaic acid are available without prescription and retail for anything from £10/$11-£50/$802+ for 30ml.

15% and 20% gel, cream or foam formulations are available by prescription in the UK, US and Australia.

UK - around £22 private prescription, standard NHS prescription charge applies

US - about $25 with insurance, $300 without3

Brazil - around R$50

If you’re unsure how to purchase prescription skincare, it’s all here:

Does it hurt?

It’s gentler than many actives, but you can still experience some stinging and redness when you first start using it.

As with all actives, start slow (apply only once a day) with a low concentration.

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Have I used it?

Yes. I love this stuff.

I started with Finacea (15% concentration, bought via prescription) once a day in the morning, then used Tretinoin (a retinoid) at night.

When I moved to South America (Colombia, then Brazil) at the end of last year, my face started peeling immediately from retinoid. I stopped using Tretinoin and started using Finacea twice a day instead.

When I ran out, I bought a 20% concentration in Brazil4 and have been using twice a day for a month.

I’m now back in the UK and bought the 20% concentration (Skinoren) here via Boots Online for £16/30ml.

Would I use it?

I plan to carry on using it until further notice. My experience is no guarantee of yours, but my skin looks pretty great right now.

If I start using Tretinoin again (at night), I’d switch to using azelaic acid once a day, in the mornings.

Should you use it?

If you’re looking for any or all of:

• skin brightening/glow

• smoother skin

• hyperpigmentation prevention/reduction

• gentle acne treatment

• chemical exfoliation

and are not using any other actives currently, this is a great place to start.

Don’t combine with AHAs/BHAs. The effects are duplicative and will strip your skin barrier. Azelaic acid is a gentler alternative to AHAs/BHAs.

If you’re using other non-exfoliating actives5 and feel you’d benefit from a boost from azelaic acid, there’s no reason not to.

Anything else I think you should know?

Azeliac acid has been under the radar for a while, but is having quite a moment just now. So if you haven’t heard about it before and it suddenly seems to be everywhere, that’s why.

Also, its effects are cumulative, so only incorporate it into your routine if you can/will keep using it regularly.

Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It used to be called an eyelash perm and is a beauty treatment that chemically induces a curl in your eyelashes.

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Curled eyelashes typically ‘open’ the eyes up, making the eyes seem larger. A lash lift creates a curl that lasts until the eyelash falls out, rather than having to use eyelash curlers to achieve.

How does it work?

This is VERY SCIENCEY.

Unusually, I’m going to link to someone else here, as this blog does an absolutely stellar job of breaking this down at both a high and detailed level.

Scroll down to “Chemistry of Lash/Brow Lift Products”.

And why would someone want it?

Just like Latisse: it works, it’s lower maintenance than eyelash extensions and less appalling than eyelash implants.

How much is it?

In the US and UK, anywhere between £$25-70, more if you get a tint (where the lashes are dyed a darker colour) at the same time.

I’ve always had the best value-for-money results at South-East Asian-owned threading salons.

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Does it hurt?

Depending on the strength of the products used, it may sting and you may tear up. I’ve always had greater sensitivity to the tinting dye than the lifting solutions, but your experience may differ.

It definitely shouldn’t burn or cause excessive eye-watering.

Have I had it?

Yes, both in-salon and DIY (the latter during lockdown where I essentially set up a beauty salon in my flat 😂).

Would I have it?

I’m getting lash lifts at the moment as I haven’t found anywhere in Rio that I’d trust to give me lash extensions. I think they’re useful in the absence of other treatments, but (like extensions) prolonged use damages the lashes and stunts their growth, so I’d be unlikely have more than 4 lifts a year.

I get them done at a salon. I would be unlikely to do DIY again. The first time went almost unnervingly well, then I over-lifted the second time (although I used the same method both times) and waiting for it to grow out was a giant pain in the arse.

Should you have it?

On an occasional basis and with a reputable technician, I think these can be really handy, especially if eyelash curlers are too much of a faff or you’re in tropical climes.

Anything else I think you should know?

If you *do* decide to go down the DIY route, make sure you only buy a kit from a reputable store (e.g. Boots/Superdrug in the UK, Target/CVS/Walgreens in the US).

If you buy from Amazon, only buy directly from Amazon as the seller, not Marketplace or ‘Fulfilled by Amazon’.

These are harsh chemicals, don’t run the risk of someone selling you expired/counterfeit products

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

Latisse is the brand name for Bimatoprost 0.03% concentration that is marketed specifically for eyelash growth.

How do you pronounce it?

Luh-teess

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Bimatoprost is an active ingredient in glaucoma medicine.

A noted side effect was that patients’ eyelashes grew and it has been marketed as Latisse specifically for lash growth for about 15 years.

How does it work?

All Bimatoprost 0.03% products (regardless of branding) will make your eyelashes grow if applied along the outer lashline consistently every day. As soon as you stop using it, its effects stop.

And why would someone want it?

It works, it’s lower maintenance than eyelash extensions and less appalling than eyelash implants.

It can also be used on eyebrows to encourage growth.

You should still proceed with extreme caution.

How much is it?

Latisse is ludicrously expensive - around £$100 for a 3ml bottle that you have to use within a month after opening or it expires

Generic Bimatoprost works exactly the same way as Latisse and costs about £15-20 in the UK. It used to be about £8. Inflation is a bitch.

Does it hurt?

It needs to be applied sparingly and accurately along the lashline with a steady hand to avoid stinging/tearing. A lot of people can develop sensitivity to it, making application uncomfortable.

Has anyone you would have heard of talked about getting it?

Victoria Beckham1, Christina Hendricks, Clare Danes, Brooke Shields2.

Have I had it?

I used to use it every day and can confirm that it does work.

Would I have it?

I stopped using it a couple of years ago. It got harder and harder to find at a reasonable price online from a reputable seller AND it started to turn my upper eyelid purple.

This shit is not for amateurs…

Should you have it?

Be aware:

1. There is a known risk of discolouration of the eyelid and iris, even if applied cautiously. This is explicitly stated on the packaging, but people don’t always read it 🤦🏼‍♀️3

2. You have to have a prescription for any Bimatoprost product in the UK/US. Anyone that’s selling it to you (including Latisse) without a prescription is doing so illegally - you can make your own risk assessment of that

3. A doctor is unlikely to prescribe generic Bimatoprost to you unless you have or are at risk of glaucoma4.

4. You can buy it online but the majority of sellers are not reputable. There is no site currently operating that I would recommend.

You are capable of making your own decisions, but - in my opinion - the risks/hassle to obtain/cost outweigh the benefits.

Anything else I think you should know?

It is possible to buy Bimatoprost in some countries without prescription (most commonly in Mexico). Be aware of the volume in the bottle - in some countries you’re only getting 10-15ml, instead of 30ml, making it seem cheaper than it really is.

ALWAYS CHECK THE EXPIRY DATE BEFORE PURCHASING FROM A PHARMACY.

If you’re tempted to buy another eyelash serum that doesn’t contain Bimatoprost, save your money. They don’t meaningfully improve lash growth: do not believe the breathless testimonials on social media5.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

It’s an injectable, commonly used to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, that paralyses muscles.

How do you pronounce it?

Bow-tox

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Forget the skincare advertising nonsense, Botox is the only non-surgical treatment that can remove/meaningfully reduce wrinkles.

How does it work?

Jargon version: Intramuscular administration of botulinum toxin acts at the neuromuscular junction to cause muscle paralysis by inhibiting the release of acetylcholine from presynaptic motor neurons

Full article here if you want more of this science shiz.

Layperson version: It blocks nerve signals from reaching the muscles, so they don’t contract or move.

And why would someone want it?

It’s most commonly used to reduce wrinkles on the face.

It can also be used to flip your top lip, slim your face, prevent excess sweating, give you a brow lift and to alleviate migraines and some muscle disorders.

How much is it?

UK - it’s usually priced by area, anything from £150-£1500 depending on how many areas and your injector’s expertise/audacity. For 3 areas (forehead, frown, eyes) around £250-£450 is usual.

US - it’s usually priced per unit, so you pay for exactly the amount they inject. Varies quite significantly by state and subject to the same injector whims. Anything from $400-$1500, with $600-$850 being a reasonable ballpark in a major city.

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Does it hurt?

As much as needles in the face hurt.

I find the apples of my cheeks (which are done to prevent eye wrinkles) pretty excruciating, but I’m a sensitive flower.

Has anyone I would have heard of talked about getting it?

Loads.

Some examples here

A lot of these are “I had it done and hated it and now I don’t get it any longer and that’s the reason I’m comfortable talking about it” which sticks in my craw, but we are where we are.

Have I had it?

Yes. Regularly (i.e. every 3-4 months) since 2010 when I started getting forehead and frown. I started getting eyes around 2017, I think1.

Reminder not to get upsold by your injector here:

Would I have it?

Absolutely. I get pretty twitchy when I feel like it’s running out. My notes specifically say “totally frozen'‘. I have a very expressive face and the lower half moves more than enough to compensate for the total lack of movement in the top half 😂

Should you have it?

If lines on your face bother you, Botox will do more to remove them than any amount of skincare.

Subject to doing the proper research, go nuts.

If you’re in the UK, I will implore you once again to only get it administered by a doctor and not your dentist/your mate’s mate who did a 1-day course.

Anything else I think you should know?

1. As long as you’re going to a reputable expert with whom you are communicating effectively to get Botox done, I would ignore all the horror stories in the Daily Mail2 about looking like a stroke victim.

2. Preventative Botox is not a thing3.

3. Most Botox isn’t actually Botox, you’re probably getting a cheaper version called Azzalure (Dysport in the US). It’s a good idea to be informed about what someone is injecting into you, so feel free to ask, but they’re pretty much interchangeable from an efficacy perspective.

4. It takes about 2-3 weeks for it to take full effect. Bear this in mind if you’re planning to get it for an event.

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Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

So… WTF is it?

A type of plastic surgery that aims to permanently change the appearance of the nose.

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How do you pronounce it?

Rye-no-plass-tee

Nosejob (I mean…)

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

It can change the width, length, angle, bulbosity, symmetry etc of the nose.

How does it work?

During surgery - which is performed under general anaesthetic - the surgeon removes or reshapes bone and/or cartilage to change the shape of the nose.

And why would someone want it?

In the instance of a deviated septum, the surgery is performed for medical, rather than aesthetic, purposes and is done to correct asymmetry of the septum that is causing breathing or other health difficulties.

Cosmetic rhinoplasty is done if someone wants to change the size or shape of their nose.

Both are likely to involve the manipulation of the septum. There are a small number of cosmetic rhinoplasties that are tip-only1.

How much is it?

Upwards of £$5k, plus surgical theatre and anaesthetic costs. Some doctors charge north of $20k for a rhinoplasty.

It’s possible to get one for less than this outside the UK/US but AS WE KNOW, cosmetic surgery tourism is a terrible idea.

The Venn diagram of

a) people in plastic surgery forums gleefully announcing pre-surgery that they’re off to Turkey/Mexico for their nosejobs

b) people in plastic surgery forums post-surgery, devastated that their surgery did not go as expected

IS A CIRCLE.

Does it hurt?

Yes.

I woke up from my second with the immortal words “I feel like I’ve been punched in the face”.

A rhinoplasty is major, traumatic surgery. It will hurt. That’s it.

Has anyone you would have heard of talked about getting it?

This article catalogues 20 celebrities who have openly discussed getting rhinoplasty. And here are some more, you ghouls.

Have I had it?

Yes. I liked it so much that I did it twice.

Would I have it?

I have now reached my limit of permitted surgeries on this body part.

You know that.

Should you have it?

That is a deep question that the deliberately brief format of ‘WTF Is…?’ cannot cater to.

If you’ve read the Rules and would be having rule-compliant work done

AND you’ve completed the research phase and have found a surgeon whose expertise you trust to get you a realistic outcome

then yes, it’s probably safe for you to proceed.

It is a lot cheaper and less stressful to just learn to love your nose. But I couldn’t, so I certainly won’t judge you if you can’t either.

Oh and ABSOLUTELY NOT if you’re a teenager. Your face is still growing and changing. Wait until you’re at least 25. 30 is even better.

Anything else I think you should know?

I think nosejobs are massively underplayed. They’ve somehow become normalised. A rhinoplasty is a major surgery, the healing of which takes a year and, even with the best surgeon, the outcome is hard to predict.

If you want one and getting one will definitely help you smile at yourself in the mirror, then I support you 100%. But they are a bigger deal than you may have been led to believe.

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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1

So… WTF is it?

This one is going to be in a different format to the usual WTF Is… series, but these are the questions you should know the answers to before you buy any more skincare, ever.

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Do you have thick or thin facial skin?

Your skin density affects how your skin ages.

Thick skin is more resilient, but tends to ‘droop’ as it ages. It’s often oilier, with visible pores.

Thin skin tends to be drier and is more prone to visible lines, wrinkles and thread veins.

How to tell:
Pinch your cheek at its fullest part between your thumb and forefinger. How much skin is there?

Thin skin: 0.5 cm – 1 cm
Medium skin: 1-1.5 cm
Thick skin: more than 1.5 cm of skin.

Amongst other factors, rosacea can thicken skin and menopause can thin skin, so be aware if your skin’s density changes over time.

If your skin is dry or ‘thirsty’, does it lack oil, water, or both?

To use the most effective products, it’s critical that you have this awareness.

Dry skin

Lacks essential natural oil (sebum), resulting in a rough, flaky, or dull appearance. It feels tight, itchy, or sensitive, particularly after cleansing or exposure to certain environments.

You need to apply oil back into the skin with emollients and possibly occlusives.

Dehydrated skin

Lacks water or moisture, irrespective of oil levels. It results in a lack of elasticity in the skin. Skin will probably also look dull, possibly flaky, with more pronounced fine lines.

You need to seal moisture into the skin with humectants1 and improve the hydration of your body by drinking more water and eating water-rich foods (fresh fruit and vegetables are an easy way to do this). You will need to layer an emollient on top of your humectant to trap the moisture in. You may find occlusives helpful- this will be specific to your skin and preferences.

There’s a pinch2 test for dehydration too:

Pinch the skin on the back of your hand. If you're well hydrated, the skin will return to its original position immediately. If you're dehydrated, your skin will stay in a pinched or “tented up” position for a moment before resettling.

All skin types can be dehydrated. It’s possible to have oil or dry skin that is dehydrated. I have oily, dehydrated skin. Wooo!

If your skin is dry and dehydrated, concentrate on replacing the oil in your skin with an emollient in your routine.

Use a humectant (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) and initially try to combat dehydration with diet/increased water consumption before adding any more humectant products. An emollient that also contains hyaluronic acid or glycerin might work well for you.

If you’re in aircon a lot, consider getting a humidifier.

Check that none of your skincare contains dehydrating ingredients (alcohol, sulfates, glycolic acid).

What are your skin concerns? What do you actually want to treat/prevent/improve?

This might be one, some or all of the below:

• Acne/blemishes/congested skin

• Rosacea

• Eczema/psoriasis

• Fine lines/ageing

• Glow/brightness

Any products that you’re buying should be geared towards one or more of the above.

You’ll note “looking like shit” is not on this list, even though you may feel like it some days (and I’m sorry, if so).

But unless you know what specifically it is about your face that’s making you feel like shit, then you’re far more vulnerable to an advert or zealous salesperson flogging you something that you don’t need/won’t help.

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What is your skin allergic/sensitive to

Frustratingly, skin tests are still relatively imprecise so all you can really do is to patch test at home (which 99% of us do not do) and monitor what you do and don’t get a reaction to. This becomes more complex if you’re using multi-ingredient products.

However, if you know that you’re specifically allergic to one product (i.e. it triggers itching, redness or puffiness), it’s worth trying to isolate what ingredient in there is causing the reaction.

And, obviously, if you know you’re allergic to a common skincare ingredient (eg lanolin, urea, essential oils, fragrance3), avoid it. Check ingredients lists, people.

Be aware of the difference between an underlying skin condition or allergy and sensitivity caused by a compromised skin barrier.

If you’ve over-exfoliated your skin or overwhelmed it with incompatible or (worse) contraindicated ingredients - leaving it red and inflamed - this isn’t the same as having intrinsically sensitive skin.

Hormonal changes

For the laaaaadies, how does your menstrual cycle impact your skin, if at all? Hormones can affect oil production, likeliness to breakout, skin consistency and a host of other factors.

For example: do you genuinely have ‘combination’ skin all month, or do you have dry skin for 21 days and oily skin for a week?

Some women ‘glow’ during ovulation, others find their skin becomes much oilier and acne-prone. Be aware of the relationship between your skin and your cycle and change up your routine during certain times of the month if necessary4.

If you’re menopausal, this can wreak havoc on your skin. Menopause will typically ultimately make your skin drier, but perimenopause can come with phases of increased oil production. You may develop eczema and some other fun stuff.

The sooner you’re aware of how your hormones affect your skin throughout your life, the better equipped you are to ring the changes when the menopause comes knocking.

Anything else I think you should know?

No. This was A LOT.

Except - you can only get a great outcome for your skin once you work out what it needs and when. Make friends with it. You’re in this together, for life. Let it be a journey, not a battle.

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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So… WTF is it?

3 terms to describe different moisturising methods

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How do you pronounce it?

Hew-meck-tant

Em-mole-ee-ent

Ock-loose-iv

What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?

Humectant - attracts water to the skin, promoting skin hydration

Emollient - This is what we traditionally thought of as ‘a moisturiser’. It seals cracks in the skin, strengthening the skin’s natural protective layer. Some humectants and occlusives are also emollients.

Occlusive - creates a physical barrier on the surface of the skin to protect it and seal moisture in the skin

NB This is the order in which they should be applied to the skin. Emollients and occlusives will be impenetrable to humectants if applied first. Apply your humectant(s) (if using), THEN your moisturiser to repair and lightly seal. Occlusives are for a thick layer, to keep everything under and not let anything else in.

Occlusives are typically used at night only, due to their thickness.

How does it work?

Humectants attract water from their surroundings and draw it into the epidermis. This moisturises the upper levels of the skin, plumping it out and reduces dryness, flakiness and cracking at the surface.

If there’s air has enough humidity, humectants will pull water vapour from it, but they can also draw it up from the dermis to the surface of the skin. This makes humectants highly effective in humid places but they can cause dry skin in drier climates.

Emollients restore oils into the skin. They often contain lipids or fatty substances that closely resemble those naturally found in the skin.

Their molecular structure integrates with and fills the gaps between skin cells, softening and smoothing the skin both in look and feel.

By filling those gaps, emollients form a flexible protective shield that maintains and reinforces the skin barrier, crucial for hydration/prevention of water loss and safeguarding the skin against external factors.

Humectants and emollients also promote cell turnover by loosening the bonds that attach dead skin cells to the skin1.

Occlusives usually2 have larger molecules than emollients, so they don’t integrate with the skin's matrix. Instead, they form a dense shield; a more distinct, physical layer on the skin's surface. This seals moisture in and prevents water loss through evaporation.

And why would someone want it?

All 3 can be used separately or in combinations, depending on your skin’s needs. If you’re treating any additional skin conditions (e.g. acne, eczema), this will affect the choices you make.

If you have oily skin, you may want to get most of your moisturisation from humectants, with a very light moisturiser to seal them in.

If you have dehydrated skin, you will need to find a balance between the 3 that works for your skin.

If you have dry skin, you should almost certainly be using an emollient daily and will likely benefit from an occlusive, on a frequent or occasional basis.

If you want to start slugging, this requires an occlusive.

How much is it?

All of these can be extremely cheap and extremely expensive.

The ingredients you’re looking for are:

Humectant - glycerin (v v cheap as an ingredient), hyaluronic acid3.

Emollient - shea/cocoa butter4, petrolatum, parrafin, lanolin, squalene, coconut/jojoba/sesame/rosehip/almond oils, mineral oil5

Occlusive - petrolatum, silicones (often Dimethicone), bee/carnuba wax, squalane, castor oil, shea butter

Where the same ingredient appears as both an emollient and an occlusive, if used as an emollient, it will be blended with other ingredients to shrink the molecular structure of the product and make it less dense. Check the formulation before buying something that can be both an emollient and an occlusive - even if you’ve used the ingredient in a different product - to make sure that it suits your skin.

Does it hurt?

No. The only risk is that you apply something that’s too heavy for your skin, which can feel uncomfortable or cause blocked pores.

Have I had it?

My life is a constant quest for the perfect moisturisation cocktail. I have oily skin that tends to dehydration and I also manage eczema and psoriasis.

Would I have it?

I don’t use all of these daily, but I currently have glycerin, hyaluronic acid, Dimethicone, paraffin, rosehip oil and (light) shea butter in my skincare rotation.

Should you have it?

You will need at least one of these on your face in some form or other.

Anything else I think you should know?

Check your existing products. Layering is important.

If you’re unwittingly layering an occlusive before a humectant, the humectant is rendered more or less useless. Similarly, an emollient should seal in a humectant to optimise moisturisation.

There is such a thing as a semi-occlusive, but I’m not getting into that here 😂6.

This is the best version of 50 Ways To Leave Your Lover. Don’t @ me.

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Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.

If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.

Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…

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