WTF are... retinoids anyway?
More Vitamin A. And these ones came to party
So… WTF is it?
Technically, ‘retinoids’ describes the entire Vitamin A skincare family (retinol, retinal and retinoic acid).
However, when people talk about retinoids, they’re generally referring to retinoic acid, AKA prescription-strength retinoids, AKA (most commonly) tretinoin/tret.
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
Retinoic acid was originally used in the treatment of acne, but it’s increasing in popularity as anti-ageing skincare.
How does it work?
All topical1 Vitamin A skincare products work the same way:
Promote skin cell turnover - i.e. encourage dead skin layers to shed and new cells to grow, meaning your skin is ‘newer’ on the surface
Stimulate Collagen Production -
Reduce inflammation - can improve redness, swelling, and irritation
Fades hyperpigmentation — including melasma, age spots, and acne scars
Retinoic acid is the highest concentration Vitamin A skincare ingredient and is only available by prescription.
In addition to the above, it can unclog pores and regulate oil production2
And why would someone want it?
It’s very effective at rejuvenating skin and is one of the only topically applied ingredients that is clinically proven to stimulate collagen production.
Results are also quick, although some may experience The Purge (more on which below).
How much is it?
Incredibly cheap when compared to most skincare products that don’t deliver anything near the anti-ageing benefits of this mutha.
It’s only available by prescription.
In the UK, a private prescription will cost you around £203.
US drug prices are highly variable depending on whether you’re prescribed generic or branded and what your insurance will cover. Welcome to the dystopian nightmare that is your healthcare system!
Does it hurt?
No. But approach with caution. Retinoic acid is extremely powerful and you may experience one or more of the below:
Skin peeling
Increased sensitivity to the sun (which will also result in skin peeling)
The Purge - some prescription retinoid users experience severe disruption to the skin for the first 2-3 months of use. This can result in acne/pimple breakouts, peeling, dryness and redness/irritation
If you get facial hair waxed whilst on retinoids, it’s likely to take off the top layer of your skin. Sooooo, maybe don’t?
Have I used it?
Yes, I used to use it daily (at night, azelaic acid in the morning) and was astonished at the speed and efficacy of results. The tretinoin glow IS REAL.
Would I use it?
I had to stop after a few months. I spend too much time in the sun and I was noticeably peeling.
I now use azelaic acid (20% concentration) twice a day instead and am really happy with it.
Azelaic acid does not boost collagen production4 however; bear this in mind if this is important to you.
I would absolutely start using a prescription retinoid again if I had less sun exposure.
Should you have it?
Unless you spend a lot of time in the sun, there’s unlikely to be a more effective topical anti-ageing product out there for you.
Anything else I think you should know?
I wrote all about prescription skincare (where to buy, characteristic Stern Words Of Advice etc) here:
This resource5 is absolutely incredible if you’re embarking on a prescription retinoid journey.
There are 4 methods to apply prescription retinoids. They are all detailed here, along with PAGES of helpful advice. Honestly, read it.
In case you don’t read it6 start with the lowest concentration and move up only once your skin tolerates the lowest concentration effortlessly. You also don’t have to move up if you’ve already achieved the outcome you wanted.
Reminder: you don’t have to use it, just because it’s there.
More skincare is not better. LESS skincare is better.
But if you’re spending a lot on skincare in the pursuit of smoother skin, a prescription retinoid7 is likely cheaper and more effective than anything else you’re using.
Until next time! x
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
i.e. externally applied to the skin
These benefits are theoretically possible from retinol, but in practice are unlikely to give meaningful results
Please finish the post before you message me to ask how to get one.
Profhilo does, so I figure I have that covered.
From the r/tretinoin subreddit
🙄
Azelaic acid is also an option. Just to really hammer this one home :)